Pantheon, Colosseum, and Forum, Rome Italy, July 9 & 10, 2011

Woke up late after a 2am finish to movie watching. We never did get our body clocks quite adapted to local times.  Our iPads and the internet access have been a wonderful compliment to our trip.  So much smaller than a laptop, yet big enough for watching movies downloaded from Netflix, good to research travel options, and to check out maps.  We also transfer pictures from our cameras and upload to share with family and friends. Amazing when you think about it....

I walked over to the window and opened the tall inside shutters.  The sunlight suddenly fills the room. The windows are open in the apartments across the street, but we are hiding with the air conditioning for now.  Window pots of flowers offset the harshness of the old concrete buildings.  We are surrounded by so much history, and I'm a bit sad to realize this is our last full day in Italy.  As exhausting as the constant travel can be it would be interesting to stay here for a month or two and really immerse into the culture.  Today we will walk down by the river and visit the markets, strolling instead of hiking, slowing our pace and resting our weary bodies.

From Cheryl's Traveling Journal

We had agreed that Saturday would be our last day of touring, and although we got off to a late start, we managed to fit in almost 6 hrs and around 8-9 miles of walking.  No wonder our feet are so worn out!

After a quick stop at the cafe below our apartment for some breakfast sandwiches to go, or take away as they call it here, we were off and running.  Lauren's excellent navigation skills again take us to a bank that is in our Visa network so that we can get more cash.  Then it's off to our first tour spot, the Pantheon.  We stop for some quick photos by the fountain out front, then plug into our audio tour on my iPod, and head for Rome's best preserved monument.

From Cheryl's Traveling Journal

From Cheryl's Traveling Journal

The columns out front rise 40 ft in the air and are each one solid piece.  The original was built in 27BC, but after fires, this re-build goes back to "only" 120 AD.  We find that this building was one of the most influential in art history, with the dome becoming the model for the Florence cathedral and the dome at St. Peter's, so now we have arrived at the beginning.  When you go inside you realize that this really is an architectural wonder.  The dome is set on a circular base, mathematically perfect.  The base of the dome sides is 23 ft thick, then it becomes thinner and lighter as it moves to the top.  At the top is the oculus, or open eye-in-the-sky, at 30 ft across, but it looks small in contrast to the overall dome.  The floor has tiny holes in it and slopes down to the sides so that rainwater will drain off.

The tombs, statues, altar, and mosaics are outstanding, just as in the other churches we have visited.  A powerful statement is made, and once again I am happy to have the audio tour to block out the interference of the massive crowds so that we can better appreciate our site.

From Cheryl's Traveling Journal

From Cheryl's Traveling Journal

Next we head for the Colosseum.  Even as we head walk down the Via del Fori Imperiali passing the Roman Forum, the Colosseum swells out from the landscape.  Built to house 50 thousand Romans at a time, even in partial ruins it is massive.

From Cheryl's Traveling Journal

Thanks to our Roma Pass purchased earlier for 25€, we are able to walk right past the long lines of people in the sweltering heat and right into the area.  I set up the previously downloaded audio and off we go into another historical tour of ancient Rome.  We learn about these great engineers who pioneered the use of concrete and the rounded arch and are entertained with stories of the segregated seating, the Christian gladiators, the web of passages down below, and the brutal games held there in Caesar's time.

From Cheryl's Traveling Journal

From Cheryl's Traveling Journal

The Arch of Constantine sits almost behind the Colosseum and seems dwarfed by it's size, and yet this is another remarkable structure. In AD 312 Constantine became sole emperor and legalized Christianity. So in one year you could be killed for being a Christian, the next you could be killed for not being one.  So church enrollment suddenly boomed :)

From Cheryl's Traveling Journal

While we were walking around the upper level we heard the growing sound of motorcycles and looked out to see hundreds of them in a full parade which stopped at the arch.  Chris would have loved this!  We heard that this a popular area for groups to collect of various types.

After refilling water bottles and a small gelato to keep us going, it was back up the hill to the Roman Forum.  We almost skipped this from exhaustion, but it is our last day... and we already had a ticket....so in we go.

This part of ancient Rome is the most in ruins except for a church and the Arch of Titus built by Jewish slaves at the south end and yet with the help of our final audio guide, we were able to envision the Forum, or city center, as it once was. The few pillars are massive, rising up from the rubble.  We sit for a bit in the basilica, which was Rome's version of a hall of justice, and learn about the Vestal Virgins who were chosen from noble families as children, then required to serve a 30 year term to tend the sacred flame.  

From Cheryl's Traveling Journal

From Cheryl's Traveling Journal

I notice yet another small fountain consistent with those all over town.  You can fill your water bottles without worry, splash your face, and feel refreshed to continue on.  The water is spring fed and wonderful.

From Cheryl's Traveling Journal

Once again we are wrapping up the day just as the exhibit area closes.  We congratulate ourselves on our excellent timing, then drag our weary bodies back to our home area.  We stop within a block of our apartment for dinner, but then end up taking most of it back home for later as we are just too tired to eat.  Part of my wonderful veal scallopini and Lauren's chicken and knocchi would evolve into brunch on Sunday.

So I wrap up my journal now, thankful for the time with Lauren on this special trip which we will remember for a lifetime.  The weariness we felt at times will be forgotten and only the wonderful memories of what we experienced in Italy will remain.  We found the people overall to be welcoming and kind, from the apartment owners to the restauranteurs. The history, culture, art, and architecture of Italy are amazing, and it's easy to understand why this is such a popular place to visit.  Thank you Italy for your hospitality, but now it's time to head for home.

From Cheryl's Traveling Journal

From Cheryl's Traveling Journal

From Cheryl's Traveling Journal

From Cheryl's Traveling Journal

Rome Fri Jul 8- The Vatican and St. Peter's Basilica

The alarm went off way too early, but after a bit we dug ourselves out of bed, had a cup of tea, and packed ourselves up for the day.  We have quickly become comfortable in our new apartment and in the neighborhood.  I find it less confusing to get around as the roads are less winding than in Florence where I felt turned around half the time.

There is a cafe, basically coffee shop, right below us that goes all day and most of the night.  One of the common breakfast items in the cafe are sandwiches with ham and soft cheese.  They generally put them in a panini type press and they are quite yummy to start off the day. So off we go to the Vatican with a quick walk past St Peter's Square.  



Since we did not have access to a printer for advance tickets we knew we would be facing a long wait.  There was indeed a long line, but having prepared ourselves with umbrellas to ward off the strong sun, purchased fans for inside for 1€, and water bottles in our bags, we were all set.  Fortunately it moved along better than expected, and we enjoyed talking and watching the people.  Of course all along the way there were folks trying to sell us tickets, tours, and variety of items that they would make us a good deal on, but we have found that a firm No! sends them another direction.

From Drop Box

I had an interior of the map, but when we get inside it's still disorienting.  Lauren's feet are killing her, we decided all then endless walking we have done, especially on many cobblestone type roads, has probably been hardest on our feet, now they are swollen and begging for a break.  But we've waited in line, and paid our 15€, so off we go into the wall to wall crowds.

From Drop Box

The Vatican museum in truly amazing but I find that the impact of the paintings and sculpture is diminished by the wall to wall crowds, pushing and struggling to keep moving forward.  The tour groups stop wherever and create traffic jams.  We do get some great pictures though, and I really liked the Egyptian area And The Long March with the quarter mile walk along that connects the ancient world to the newer times and the Sistene Chapel.  The tapestries were amazing, there were open windows with views out into the inner Vatican City and the final gallery there of maps provides a long ago view and virtual tour of Italy's regions.  The entire long hallway ceiling is covered in murals and paintings that take your breathe away.

From Drop Box

From Drop Box

After moving along back into the more closed in areas through crowded exhibits of Raphael and Constantine frescoes, it was time for a break in the little cafe.  Nearly three hours have elapsed since we first started in the line.  Our energy renewed and my iPod tuned into Rick Steve's podcast to educate us about the Sistene Chapel, we were ready for the final step of this journey.  

We entered the crowded chapel and were lucky enough to squeeze into a seating space along one side wall.  We tuned into our podcast and the people became a fuzzy blur as I was quickly immersed into the story of Michelangelo's astonishing work of art begun in 1508.  Both the process required and the resulting magnificent frescoes on the ceiling, and then the altar wall The Last Judgment that was completed 23 years later are truly awe inspiring.  It certainly made all the crowds and lines and sore feet worthwhile.

We zipped through the more modern art areas after that and once we left the Vatican, we went in search for sandals like most of the locals wear.  Just a few blocks away we are in luck!  Avoiding the regular stores, we have gravitated towards the endless street markets to look for deals.  Everywhere you turn there are knock off bags/purses, shoes, scarves, jewlry, knickknacks, and clothing.  We find shoes that go from 3-10€ and after trying several on for comfort fit, I buy a pair and Lauren buys two.  Now with our happier feet, we move into the clothing and find giant bins for 3€ each.  Lauren is in heaven and I even find a couple items.  

So bags in tow, we realize we have to eat. We now know to go off to one of the side streets to avoid the high prices, and find a small pizzeria where I happily dive into the best spaghetti of the trip.  Clearly homemade and fresh lightly sauced with fresh tomato bits, and accompanied by a small carafe of the local wine just as the locals do, I feel refreshed and ready for our next venture.  It seems that we are drinking wine constantly and yet it never seems to bother me.  The wine is served with a large bottle of water normally, and your food, and is the most common drink.

We read that you may be able to avoid some of the crowds by going later to St. Peter's Basilica, and find that it is great advice. The Square is enormous, but we had stopped here earlier, and follow our little guide off to the right for the security lines and entrance.  Once through security we quickly move on to the stricter clothing review, where many people are turned away who are not dressed to the church code of legs covered to below the knees, and shoulders covered with clothing or the ever popular scarves.  We are prepared and welcomed on through by the guards, then shoot on over to make sure that we are able to get into the queue for the walk up to the dome before it closes.  Basically the last ones in through the gate, we happily zip over to pay our 7€ to take the elevator up the first part, then walk to the top.

From Drop Box

The view is simply amazing, with all of Rome laid our before your eyes.  We have been so fortunate with the weather on our travels.  Even though it is extremely hot mid day, the skis are so clear and sparkling blue, and if you find shade it's not bad especially with frequent breezes, then the evenings cool down and are delightful.

From Drop Box

We've each taken hundreds of pictures, holding onto the moments of our special trip in these wonderful cities.  Italy has captured our hearts and Lauren is ready to move here for a couple years.

Back down into the church and we start up another of our podcast tours.  The iPod connects to the splitter, then to our individual earpieces with our lines attaching us to each other like an umbilical cord. The size of the church is overwhelming and powerful. We listen to the bible stories of Peter, are allowed to take as many non-flash pictures as we like, and walk near the alter, the sculptures and the walls.  We are told the the murals on the walls or not paintings but rather massive mosaics to preserve the colors over time.

From Drop Box

 Then when we are nearly ready to leave we return back near the entrance to the far corner where we find the Pieta created by Michaelangelo when he was only 24.  It is the only statue shielded from the public, blocked by bullet proof glass.  It reminds us how wonderful it is in this day of terrorism to still be able to visit the churches and museums with relative ease.

From Drop Box

From Drop Box

What a day we have had.  We agree it's been the most special of our trip.  To finish it off, we head to our home here, then grab a cloth bag and dash off to the nearby market for prosciutto crudo, salame di tacchino, mozzarella, and a lite salad with black olives and corn, spindled with the Italian virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar.  A few olive crackers and the obligatory bottle of chianti, and we're all set!  

From Drop Box

Our evening is capped off my some calls to our US homes and a delightful B&W movie Roman Holiday with one of my all time favorite actresses, Audrey Hepburn.

From Drop Box

From Drop Box

Rome, Italy. July 7, 2011

We pop out off bed to the alarm to go brace the shower once again.  Our water is either boiling hot or freezing cold, so it takes some engineering to wash hair and take a shower.  I fix a cup of tea for Lauren and I while we get ready and we comment that we feel somewhat sad to leave this quiet retreat.  But we lock the door behind us and drag our luggage down the four flights of stairs, majestic a quick stop at our favorite morning breakfast cafe then the bank to get cash once again, then off we go to the train terminal.

We will be riding in one of the higher speed trains today, and IC to Rome.  for 45€ we are able to make the trip in one and a half hours.. Not bad compared to a plane ticket.  The world flies by, I catch up on some Rome tour info and Lauren writes her blog both for the trip and some brainstorms on usability inspired by the excellent design of our railcar, then suddenly we have arrived.



I had read in my book that an area near where we are staying should run about 10 € so we mentioned that to the man at the taxi stand.  He grumbled, then another man came up, then another as they are all speaking animated Italian and apparently deciding what to do with us.  The one man tells us to go over there, to the other lane, and we get into a car and drive off.  This driver speaks no real English, but actually tries to communicate anyway, and point out some sites as we go flying through the streets. It's interesting to see all the crazy speeding and horn honking.  The horns are actually a communication, like "on your left!" "on your right!" and somehow it seems to all work.

Our landlords are actually waiting for us as hop out of the car, and apologize that we ended up at 16€, but I was actually glad it was under 20€ with the language barrier and big city risks of being taken.



 We have seen beggars, but nothing too aggressive at least not yet.  We do keep our bags close at all times though.  They prefer to deal in cash here, so I will have to head to the ATM yet again to survive the rest of the week.

We are staying in a lovely somewhat residential area, just a few blocks from the city sites, and yet it seems much further as you suddenly move from tourism to the local cultural feel.
We had a nice lunch at a small cafe nearby with salad that had seafood and fruit in it, meatballs and grilled vegetables.



 We are located near Piazza Novona in the Pantheon neighborhood, and with the advise of landlord Geoffe we look for the Tourist information booth.  They are out of the Roma Pass that we want to be able to get into exhibits for less and bypassing lines, but we find a couple at one of the museums down the street.  



We stroll past the Pantheon and through the Piazza Venezia, watching out for the endless tourists, mopeds, flying cars, and bikes.







We head back up towards our new home along the Tiber River, which seems peaceful and relaxing in contrast to the craziness a few blocks away.  There are places we see that we want to know mire about, but that needs to move to another day.



We return to the Piazza nearby our apartment, have a lovely but expensive dinner and watch all the people gather around the vendors, the sidewalk entertainers, and mimes, and plan our day tomorrow.



We decide that the rest of the trip we will eat with the locals within our little neighborhood, save some money, and soak up the local culture, then head off to home, after the ritual nightly gelato.


I finish the night typing here again, staying up to late for the early morning we are planning in order to try for Vatican tickets.  We have agreed we will need some rest after our vacation at the rate we are going.  I call home, feeling happy to connect via Skype, then wrap things up for yet another day.

Wed July 2011, Tuscany!

We hop out of bed a little before 7am ready to take on the day.  After stopping by our favorite little morning cafe and the bank ATM, we go to the designated meeting spot for our trip into Tuscany.  Our travel group have English and French speaking tourists, so everything is announced in both languages.  As we sit at a sidewalk cafe and wait to head out to our bus, I watch the morning hustle and bustle as the city begins to come to life.  There are cleaners and even the police picking up little, and making sure everything looks good.  Women in high heels and dresses and men in their suits ride by on bicycles and mopeds on their way to work.  The helmets atop their heads make sense and yet seem even more out of place in this picture.



It's chilly this morning and I huddle into my scarf that is the only thing I have to cover my shoulders.  Scarves are all the rage in Italy and the majority of the women are wearing one of the many styles here.  It is great to have both until the warmth of the day takes over and also required for entry into the churches.  We all pile into the bus and squeeze through rush hour traffic.  We went through one tight spot that could not have more than an inch on each side and I fully expected us to just be slicing off the side of one of the cars parked on either side.  Most of the streets are one way within the historic district, then people park on both sides and the cars, trucks, and mopeds squeeze between.  It's amazing that these buses can make it at all.



We break through the stones walls that line the historic district and move into the Florence residential areas.  Next there are rows of gas stations that remind me of the reality of life outside.  Suddenly we are out in the country and moving into the Tuscan Hills, green with trees and sprawling vineyards and farmlands.  I see people by the roadside, and this now feels much more real than the city we left behind.  It's amazing to look out and see not only farmhouses but castles and expansive churches up on the hillside.



Our first stop is San Gimignano, a fully restored medieval town.  We did a short tour through their historical museum and learned about the 1300 with a miniaturized exhibit of how it looked in 1300 complete with 72 towers.  The stoneworks are truly amazing and after our little tour we were freed to explore a bit, take pictures, and shop.  There is wonderful wine and olive oil everywhere and I'm disappointed that I can't just bring home a case.



Once back on the bus we head off to a local winery / farm.  The owner entertained us with somewhat rough English explanations of the wine process, the oxygenation, the benefit of the oak barrels and the reminder that the initial quality must be good to get the best finish.  We had a sit down wine tasting, combined with education on his different levels of wine to his superior chianti and Sangiovese blends.  While some then shopped and bought wines, Lauren and moved out to relax on a grassy place in the shade and chat about other ideas and share thoughts on life.



Now off we go again, back onto the bus (which was thankfully very new and well set up, similar to a newer model plane) and we head to Siena.  After being released to have lunch in the Piazza del Campo, we were turned over to a local guide.  It was exciting to know that this is the exact place that a famous horse race, the Palio, was run there just last weekend.  All the clans of the area are represented and the horse that wins gives that group enormous bragging rites until the next race.  Thousands jam the piazza to see the race and it is quite an event.  Check out a u tube video to find out more about it.



The local guide leads us to the Siena Duomo, which has similar coloring and marble to the one in Florence.  The story is that this area continued to grow and expand the church size and buildings, perhaps angering the powers in Rome.  There was plaque in Italy and many died, then the pope announced that it was because Siena was trying to outdo the Vatican, so much of the construction then stopped and never was completed.  We got to go into the Duomo and hear more about the history of the church, of art, and of the finances of the times.  They supposedly have the first bank ever in Siena as well.




We had a quick break before heading to the bus for our final stop and found the not uncommon European tradition of a supervised restroom area that you paid to enter.  Then it was off to another castle area at Monterigionni, but we were honestly too tired by then to fully appreciate it's charm.  It was a great day under the Tuscan sun, but we were ready to return "home".  When we got back we stopped off at a Pizzeria out on one of the plazas and watched the people and the sunset, then headed home to our little apartment to relax a bit for the remainder of the night and prepare for our trip to Rome tomorrow

Tuesday, July 5th, Florence, Italy

We made it to our apartment without any issue yesterday which I thought was amazing with the chaotic confusion of the city and its maize of tiny roads that twist and wind all directions.  The buildings are normally four to five floors and the roads, even busy ones, are all about like alleys at home.



Our flat is on the 3rd floor (which makes it the 4th level up) so we lug our heavy bags up this narrow staircase that turns about every five steps.  I bring up the rear as our host Elaina with her baby girl Olivia and Lauren chat.  We walk in and it reminds me of an old movie.  We find that this was her grandmother's home.  There are a few new appliances blended in with antique furniture, a simple wood table and mint green painted kitchen cupboards.  You can still almost feel Grandma there and instantly the rustic vision around us feels like our new home away from home.






We love having the wifi hook up and quickly connect to folks at home, and post our pictures and blogs.  Lauren gets me all set up with the steps to create my own, then we force ourselves to leave to head out for dinner. We decided to look up one of Rick Steve's recommendations for places to eat, and it is a lovely little restaurant but we are disappointed that there are mostly Americans eating there.  This guy's books are everywhere you go as people walk about practically following his European guides word for word.  So we decided that today we'll leave Rick behind and just explore the old fashioned way.

Lauren hit the exhaustion wall this am so is getting a couple hours sleep to catch up, while I sit at the kitchen table at my iPad.  It is so peaceful and restful here.  I know that we should be out checking all the endless museums and churches and other not-to-be-missed items and yet these quiet moments are perhaps better for our souls, and will nourish our bodies.  Maybe this will just be a Florence scouting mission so that we will know just what we would like to do on our next visit.

We got rolling and everything worked out great.  We thought that since we had not done advance reservations for the Uffuzi Gallery which houses many key Italian paintings and sculptures.  However, when we went to to tourist bureau they advised that it would be open from 6-10pm tonight and that we should go to get in line then.  So with our late day plan in line and reservations all made for a Tuscany trip tomorrow, we grabbed a quick bite for lunch then took some pictures and headed off to Duomo.  




I had read this am in the famous Rick Steves book that the Duomo is a plac to be seen but that the lines can go for several hours.  So here's the trick.  Go to the Duomo Museum. (looks like opera museum on the outside wall, back behind Duomo) and ask for the tour of Terraces of the Cathedral and Dome.  It ran 15€ per person.  Then they send you to an exit door, where you present your pass and walk right in.  There were crowds outside that probably stood there for 3 hrs to get in, so we felt like quite the VIP guests!

We saw the inside main floor of this wonderful cathedral, then hope you got your good work out shoes and emery ready,because we are going to climb.  listen later figured it for around 300 steps, but it sure seemed like more! .



They were very narrow, winding around in circles or in steep passages.  After the first part we went outside, then wound around the base of the massive dome itself.  After some pix of the great  scenery we were off again, all the way to then catwalks atop of the dome. The scenery was awesome, as we now either at the highest point or close and could see for miles.  Of course then you have to walk back down.... But it was truly worth the trip!



We did some shopping in the local markets, and Lauren was good as usual at negotiating some deals, so we collected some items for ourselves and family /friends at home.  Walking down the busy street we ran into our landlord and chatted for a bit... Made it feel like we were really a part of the neighborhood.  Unfortunately, Florence has become a bit like a chaotic Disneyland with large crowds and line, and people scrambling for their kodak moments.  We prefer a little more traditional locale time, but hope to have that tomorrow.




So off we go again to the Uffizi Gallery, where we were very surprised to find NO line!  Clearly people don't realize they are open in the evening or are just too tire from the day.  It was a wonderful museum in an enormous U shape with the major artists and sculptors of the 15th - 17th centuries.  Donatello and Michelangelo, among many others were well represented.

At this point we decided we were ready for dinner and headed across the bridge to see what there is on the other side.  



We found a lovely restaurant with seating right on the river, so that was a perfect finish to the day with another bottle of the local Tuscan wine, some paper thins sausage for appetizers, a carbonara pasta, and fresh sea bass and swordfish.  As we make the walk back to the apartment,there is room for one more wonderful gelato (remember all that walking??) and now we are back once again in our lovely little apartment, connecting to home and preparing for another day.  We should sleep well tonight!