Woke up late after a 2am finish to movie watching. We never did get our body clocks quite adapted to local times. Our iPads and the internet access have been a wonderful compliment to our trip. So much smaller than a laptop, yet big enough for watching movies downloaded from Netflix, good to research travel options, and to check out maps. We also transfer pictures from our cameras and upload to share with family and friends. Amazing when you think about it....
I walked over to the window and opened the tall inside shutters. The sunlight suddenly fills the room. The windows are open in the apartments across the street, but we are hiding with the air conditioning for now. Window pots of flowers offset the harshness of the old concrete buildings. We are surrounded by so much history, and I'm a bit sad to realize this is our last full day in Italy. As exhausting as the constant travel can be it would be interesting to stay here for a month or two and really immerse into the culture. Today we will walk down by the river and visit the markets, strolling instead of hiking, slowing our pace and resting our weary bodies.
We had agreed that Saturday would be our last day of touring, and although we got off to a late start, we managed to fit in almost 6 hrs and around 8-9 miles of walking. No wonder our feet are so worn out!
After a quick stop at the cafe below our apartment for some breakfast sandwiches to go, or take away as they call it here, we were off and running. Lauren's excellent navigation skills again take us to a bank that is in our Visa network so that we can get more cash. Then it's off to our first tour spot, the Pantheon. We stop for some quick photos by the fountain out front, then plug into our audio tour on my iPod, and head for Rome's best preserved monument.
The columns out front rise 40 ft in the air and are each one solid piece. The original was built in 27BC, but after fires, this re-build goes back to "only" 120 AD. We find that this building was one of the most influential in art history, with the dome becoming the model for the Florence cathedral and the dome at St. Peter's, so now we have arrived at the beginning. When you go inside you realize that this really is an architectural wonder. The dome is set on a circular base, mathematically perfect. The base of the dome sides is 23 ft thick, then it becomes thinner and lighter as it moves to the top. At the top is the oculus, or open eye-in-the-sky, at 30 ft across, but it looks small in contrast to the overall dome. The floor has tiny holes in it and slopes down to the sides so that rainwater will drain off.
The tombs, statues, altar, and mosaics are outstanding, just as in the other churches we have visited. A powerful statement is made, and once again I am happy to have the audio tour to block out the interference of the massive crowds so that we can better appreciate our site.
Next we head for the Colosseum. Even as we head walk down the Via del Fori Imperiali passing the Roman Forum, the Colosseum swells out from the landscape. Built to house 50 thousand Romans at a time, even in partial ruins it is massive.
Thanks to our Roma Pass purchased earlier for 25€, we are able to walk right past the long lines of people in the sweltering heat and right into the area. I set up the previously downloaded audio and off we go into another historical tour of ancient Rome. We learn about these great engineers who pioneered the use of concrete and the rounded arch and are entertained with stories of the segregated seating, the Christian gladiators, the web of passages down below, and the brutal games held there in Caesar's time.
The Arch of Constantine sits almost behind the Colosseum and seems dwarfed by it's size, and yet this is another remarkable structure. In AD 312 Constantine became sole emperor and legalized Christianity. So in one year you could be killed for being a Christian, the next you could be killed for not being one. So church enrollment suddenly boomed :)
While we were walking around the upper level we heard the growing sound of motorcycles and looked out to see hundreds of them in a full parade which stopped at the arch. Chris would have loved this! We heard that this a popular area for groups to collect of various types.
After refilling water bottles and a small gelato to keep us going, it was back up the hill to the Roman Forum. We almost skipped this from exhaustion, but it is our last day... and we already had a ticket....so in we go.
This part of ancient Rome is the most in ruins except for a church and the Arch of Titus built by Jewish slaves at the south end and yet with the help of our final audio guide, we were able to envision the Forum, or city center, as it once was. The few pillars are massive, rising up from the rubble. We sit for a bit in the basilica, which was Rome's version of a hall of justice, and learn about the Vestal Virgins who were chosen from noble families as children, then required to serve a 30 year term to tend the sacred flame.
I notice yet another small fountain consistent with those all over town. You can fill your water bottles without worry, splash your face, and feel refreshed to continue on. The water is spring fed and wonderful.
Once again we are wrapping up the day just as the exhibit area closes. We congratulate ourselves on our excellent timing, then drag our weary bodies back to our home area. We stop within a block of our apartment for dinner, but then end up taking most of it back home for later as we are just too tired to eat. Part of my wonderful veal scallopini and Lauren's chicken and knocchi would evolve into brunch on Sunday.
So I wrap up my journal now, thankful for the time with Lauren on this special trip which we will remember for a lifetime. The weariness we felt at times will be forgotten and only the wonderful memories of what we experienced in Italy will remain. We found the people overall to be welcoming and kind, from the apartment owners to the restauranteurs. The history, culture, art, and architecture of Italy are amazing, and it's easy to understand why this is such a popular place to visit. Thank you Italy for your hospitality, but now it's time to head for home.
No comments:
Post a Comment